As an artist, one of the most important things you have to do is show your work especially if you want to make a career out of art. To do this you need to be able to send images of your work to potential curators, galleries, museums, and collectors etc. How this is done depends on the medium you work in, but assuming it is a non-time based medium, the only realistic way of doing this is by taking photographs of you work, and then either sending in the hardcopy photos or sending a CD of images. Now for paintings and drawings this is generally a lot easier as they are usually flat and you only have 2 dimensions to worry about - in sculpture things are a lot more complex. The rest of this post is really a summary of the things I have slowly learnt the hard way, over the last couple of months, about how to take half decent photographs of your own work. Now the thing with photographs, is that a good photograph will just make the work look like it ought to, but a bad photograph will significantly detract from the work and make you look amateurish. So if you send in poor quality photographs to an exhibition/curator/gallery you are marking yourself down before you have even started. Of course you don't have to show your work, and in some ways I like the idea of just making work, and not bothering with the hassle of trying to show the work and sell it and instead to just make the work because you need to make it. The problem is, if you decide to start exhibiting your work, you get sucked in to the whole slightly weird and crazy world of contemporary art. I might discuss the art world in another post, but this post is really about presenting the work to an interested 3rd party.
Ok, so when it comes to photographing your work there are basically two options: Do it yourself, or get someone else to do it for you. Personally i'm a believer in doing it yourself, especially if you are an emerging artist who will be changing & updating your works fairly regularly; if you can photograph your own work it will save you a lot of money and trouble in the long run. Using a professional photographer (or alternatively a mate who is a serious hobbyist), will require some planning and usually handing over lumps of cash, so I would only normally recommend this if you are really put-off about photography, or if you need some good high quality photos for a specific reason.
I will run through a quick high level view of what you need to know and how to shoot some halfway decent photos of your own work. It's important to remember that this is a learning process like everything else, so your first few shoots will probably not be great.
Camera If you are going to be doing a lot of photography for your work, then invest in an entry level DLSR (Canon EOS 1100D and Nikon D3100 are both good). The more expensive ones are much better, but a waste unless you are seriously into photography. An alternative is to get a 'bridge' camera, these are halfway between a DSLR, and a point and click compact - these are pretty good all round cameras, and ideal if you are after something to take photos of your work with and as a general all round camera. Finally there are point-and-click compact cameras, these will do if you don't have anything better (or don't want to spend more), but you will find that you hit the limits of these cameras pretty quickly.
Lighting
Getting good light is essential for taking photos of the work, it is also one of the most difficult factors. The best lighting is natural daylight at around noon, but usually this this isn't practical unless you work is outside, or you have lots of natural light coming in through a window. Soinstead you either need a well-lit artifical area, or you need to start looking at providing additional artificial lights. When thinking about lighting there are two factors at play: The first is making sure that the piece has enough light so that it is correctly lit and you aren't getting shadows in the wrong place. The second is setting up your camera to match the type of lighting your using.
To sort out the first issue, the best lighting is one the covers the whole piece and doesn't cast areas into shadow. Good natural lighting will sort this out automatically, but poor lighting needs to be corrected. I normally overcome this by using 2 constant light Softboxes from PhotoSEL (Bargain at £120), I set these up at each side of the piece at 45degree angles and then move & point up or down depending on the size of the work. I would generally recommend avoiding flash unless you really know what your doing.
The second issue is related to your cameras 'White balance' and the fact that light from different types of sources is actually a different colour and will make the colours of your work look wrong if you choose an incorrect setting. Most DSLR's and bridge cameras have a variety of settings for this and a 'custom mode' to tune to whatever lighting is present; compacts tend to have a few presets, but don't usually have a custom mode. In practical terms, if you are shooting outside, or in good natural light leave your camera on 'auto white balance' (AWB) and don't worry about anything else. If you shooting indoors, in non-natural light then there are three ways of doing things: Firstly, set you camera to a custom white balance that approximately matches the lights in the area (i.e. tungsten, fluorescent etc..), this is the easiest approach and will work with all cameras - but it will give the leas satisfying results. The second option is to set a custom white balance, by photographing a piece of white card under the existing lighting conditions, this lets you camera work out what 'white' should actually look like; this is a good option, but can be a bit fiddly and needs your camera to have a custom white balance mode. Thirdly (and the method I use), take the photos in auto white balance mode, and then correct using a software package like iphoto, adobe elements 10 etc..., this works well if you are shooting in camera RAW mode, but can be a problem if you are shooting in JPEG as you loose quality. This mode is also fairly good if you have a limited functionality point & click, but have access to either of the software packages I mentioned.
Shooting Location
This depends on the work you are shooting, if the work is located outside and heavy, then its location will be fixed and you just have to pick a good position to shoot from. Usually though most shooting is done inside, if this is the case, then you need to setup some sort of space to shoot in. Really what you need is an empty bit of floor space, that is painted a dark colour like grey, and a clean white wall to shoot against, this will sort of mimic a typical gallery space and helps you give an idea of what the work would look like if it was installed in an actual gallery. Then position you piece (& plinth) so that you can capture it with the camera, and not shown any background mess. It is possible (but difficult) to set up a continuos, white or black, vinyl screen which gives a very smooth background and makes the work 'float' in space, but I would only really recommend this for very small intricate pieces as it doesn't really work with larger objects unless you really know what your doing.
Shooting Position
This is partly a matter of taste and style but also depends on the size of the object and its location. Generally I would recommend shooting at a slight angle so that the depth of the piece is shown and try and get the piece so it sits in the centre of the frame and that any background clutter is out of sight. Aim to shoot slightly down at a bit above the eye level of the piece; it is important to avoid shooting at a very steep angle to the piece (i.e. very up or down), as this creates problems of perspective and converging parallels and can distort the piece (the way train tracks appear to converge in the distance), cameras seem to over emphasise this for some reason and a piece can suddenly end up looking very odd and distorted
Tripod Get a tripod. Really. If you are shooting a still life you need a tripod - you can pick up fairly decent ones from Jessops or any camera shop for about £45 and they are an absolute must, as they let you set the camera to the highest quality levels and avoid the problems of camera shake.
Camera Settings The final hurdle it to pick camera settings that are suitable for the piece. I normally shoot in Manual (M) mode or Aperture Priority (Av) mode. Firstly set you lens aperture to a big setting (small f), this will help give a good background blur, and keep the object sharp. Note that if you have a DSLR with a lens capable of a very big aperture (small f), don't set it so small that parts of the piece appear out of focus. ISO setting should be as low as you can get, ideally 100, this gives maximum quality.
If you are in Av mode, the camera will pick the best shutter time for you. Note that if you are shooting a dark object against a light background you will need to use the overexposure control, to stop up the camera a couple of notches. This is because the camera get confused by all the background light and misses the object. If you are shooting a light object against a dark background, it is the same principle in reverse. If you are in Manual mode, you just have to play about a bit until you get the right settings. In both cases though it is important to remember that is the sculpture that is the important bit and this is the priority, so in some cases you amy have to sacrifice other areas.
Finally make sure you camera is in the highest quality mode you can get, and set the white balance to suit the lighting (as discussed above) then start shooting. I would recommend taking quite a few shots of each object, try them at different angles and heights to see what works. Then you can go through them later and discard the ones that aren't any good.
Right thats all. This is by no means a definitive guide, but should give you a good few pointers to start shooting with.